Palm Springs shimmers like a mirage – lush and green, an oasis of luxe living in the middle of the otherwise austere Colorado Desert. The community anchoring the Coachella Valley is known for its iconic midcentury design, 100+ golf courses and vibrant social scene, drawing glitterati from Los Angeles as well as all over the world. The irrigation for the golf courses alters the weather here; Palm Springs and the surrounding Coachella Valley are hot and humid, while the rest of the Colorado Desert is arid. Daytime life in Palm Springs is best lived poolside under the shade of the towering palm trees.
The area was largely developed post WW2 during the 1940s and 1950s. The proximity to Hollywood, easy climate and economic forces that shaped the industrial development of steel and glass combined with architectural talent and affluent clients to create Desert Modernism - An entirely new language of architecture, expressing soaring views and secluded spaces using the austere elemental materials, architects like Richard Neutra, Albert Frey and John Lautner created a new vernacular for their discerning clients using concrete, wood, glass, steel and stone to establish a world-renowned design destination.
One anchor of Palm Springs design is the annual Modernism Week in February (it’s happening right now!), the festival vibe in town is unmistakable. Get on their mailing list and check out future details here. Highlights are the midcentury modern architecture, art, interior design, landscapes and vintage culture. The festival features home tours, design forward programming, midcentury vendors and regional events. Winter is a perfect time to enjoy the mild weather of the high desert.
There is much more to the region than design alone. Heading north on Route 62, the massive wind turbines and arrays of solar farms remind us of the power of endless sun and wind that supply regional energy. On the way to Joshua Tree, driving into Morongo and Yucca Valleys, the collection of creative, family-owned businesses is plentiful. In Morongo Valley, pull up to the parking lot at 49700 29 Palms Highway. Chakra runs Roots and Stars Botanika, featuring beautiful tarot, teas and clothing as well as events. Hidden inside, you’ll discover Matt Elson’s Infinity Boxes – an installation of experiential artworks integrating mirrors and lighting, playing with perception and self. This is also a great place to grab some snacks - to the left is The Farmer in the Dale, a family owned farmstand, offering delicious seasonal produce. The strawberries and tangerines were incredible, and they sell out quickly.
Further along Highway 62, turn north at Yucca Valley and head up past Homestead Valley to Landers, where a truly out of this world experience awaits at the Integratron. Originally built by engineer, George Van Tassel claimed that the structure “is based on the design of Moses’ Tabernacle, the writings of Nikola Tesla and telepathic directions from extraterrestrials.” This one-of-a-kind 38-foot high, 55-foot diameter, all wood dome was designed to be an electrostatic generator for the purpose of rejuvenation and time travel. Built of hand joined Douglas fir, without any metal fasteners, the building is an acoustic marvel. The Integratron currently hosts sound baths, both public and private – reservations are a must. Come early, stroll the grounds, and enjoy some of the finest spring water you’ll find anywhere in the desert.
One of the highlights of the region is undoubtedly Joshua Tree National Park, and it merits days of exploration. You can easily drive through the park in a couple of hours, viewing the highlights from the comfort of your vehicle or weather permitting, take time on foot to explore the isolation and other worldliness of the region. The popular western entrance to Joshua Tree Park has the longest wait time. If you are coming from Palm Springs, consider starting at the southeastern entrance off Cottonwood Springs Road along Interstate 10. This approach enters the park from the landscaped vantage of the Colorado Desert offering less wait time and an alternative perspective. This is high desert territory; daytime conditions get hot and harsh quick. It is best to arrive at the park for sunrise and avoid hiking between 10am and 3pm. Always pack plenty of water, snacks and protective layers of clothing – there are no services other than pit toilets inside the park. Camping is available with reservations; there are countless roadside motels and private home rentals throughout the region. The ranger stations offer maps, information and key areas to visit. Catch the light sparkling through Cholla Cactus, enjoy the desert silence and marvel at the highly evolved design of the plant and animals that call this harsh landscape home.
All this exploration leaves you hungry! There are plenty of great dining options along Highway 62. At the intersection of the national park road and Joshua Tree, several shops have opened in recent years, catering to the variety of tastes coming through. Get satiated at Big Dez; beverages, sandwiches and salads from morning to midafternoon. In Yucca Valley, Las Palmas offers great Mexican food in a casual sit-down environment. When the pint of margarita is $6, you know you’ve found a great stop. Kasa Market and Taco Shop, along Route 62 in Yucca Valley, is a convenient destination for groceries, with a taqueria in the back. You can order online or park and come in – the street tacos are delicious. There are endless dining options in Palm Springs as well – from eclectic options in retro spaces to chic cocktail bars at the highest end hotels, the desert offers something for everyone.
I hope you enjoy your own discoveries!
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